![]() 10/26/2019 at 13:29 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
I was thinking of using this in the battery tray and box until I can afford to get the metal replaced. It’s so thin now sand blasting would result in daylight.
![]() 10/26/2019 at 13:35 |
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Y
es,
a
nd with options too.
![]() 10/26/2019 at 13:37 |
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It works very well if all the prep is done correctly.
![]() 10/26/2019 at 13:46 |
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I can brush and scrape the area but nowhere near bare metal.
![]() 10/26/2019 at 13:52 |
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I think you need some of the rust to be in place in order for the Por-15 to work, actually. I bet you could clean those areas enough with a wire wheel on a drill to get the paint to work properly. Wire brush then clean with their cleaner/prep stuff then paint.
![]() 10/26/2019 at 14:16 |
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There’s a degreaser and metal prep that you’re supposed to use before you coat it with the actual POR 15 and there’s a top coat for areas that are exposed to sunlight. I don’t think you need it to be bare metal.
![]() 10/26/2019 at 14:24 |
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I swear I had this conversation with you, or maybe it was Herschel Miracle Paint. For normal coating/prevention on a nice surface that isn’t bad, POR is great. If you have rust and some damage to fix or seal, I would go with Miracle paint, you can layer fiberglass in that, although you can knock off any rust and paint right over it with Miracle as well. I have used both, my Mercedes is coated all underneath and all in the boot with POR. I used Miracle paint on the Z before we went in deep and welded in new stuff, it is serious stuff, do not get it on you!
![]() 10/26/2019 at 14:28 |
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I know this guy, he wa a bush pilot turned Merc mechanic, he knows everything. I trust him. You don’t have to use this stuff only on holes and bad damage, it is serious stuff on it’s own! He mentions POR in this video. I haven’t learned of many secret-ish products that not many people uses, but should, this is one of them.
![]() 10/26/2019 at 14:28 |
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I cleaned and sealed the inside of a gas tank with their tank system. It worked wonderfully well. Good products, as they said, if used/prepped properly.
![]() 10/26/2019 at 14:29 |
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it works well if e prep is done, works for crap if not. I’d suggest a trust converter and paint over POR15. I used this stuff on a rusted rock chip in my wife’s front fender. Has held up for 3 years now. And I didn’t even paint over it.Just slapped on a health coat of this stuff. It turns black after about 12 hours of drying.
![]() 10/26/2019 at 14:35 |
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Save yourself some money and buy phosphoric acid from the hardware store. Old motorcycle restoration trick. Spray it on and wipe it off.
Pretty sure POR-15 is just phosphoric acid with other stuff mixes in.
![]() 10/26/2019 at 14:35 |
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I think the preparation stuff is especially needed if the surface is in shiny bare metal condition. Copy-pasted product information:
“
METAL-READY provides the best adhesion for POR-15® on any metal surface,
including aluminum and shiny polished metal surfaces. Our simple
process gently etches metal, creating an ideal anchor pattern for
coatings such as POR-15®, while simultaneously leaving a zinc phosphate
coating to insure chemical bonding of paint and steel. Avoid other preps
that may leave harmful residues which prevent proper adhesion. After
thoroughly degreasing your work piece, apply environmentally safe
METAL-READY to both neutralize any rust and etch any clean bare metal.
This will allow better adhesion of POR-15® or any other paint.
METAL-READY is not caustic, corrosive, toxic or flammable.
”
Mild surface rust is likely serving the same purpose.
![]() 10/26/2019 at 14:39 |
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The battery tray is not as bad as the fender. The fender is really bad, like paper thin. I just don’t know yet if I want to spend the money on new sheet metal in this area but that is what it needs.
![]() 10/26/2019 at 14:47 |
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I think this is how I’m going to approach this situati on. There is no access under the battery tray to really get it clean enough for proper painting, and if I did it would results in holes in the inner fender.
![]() 10/26/2019 at 14:50 |
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I would try to get the bulk of it off with a wire brush on a power drill, then use rust converter on whatever’s left and paint over it with Rust-Oleum Engine Enamel . That’s what I’ve been doing on my project Cub so far and it seems to be working well. I’m using a Loctite sprayable converter :
![]() 10/26/2019 at 14:58 |
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The under the battery tray area is impossible to access, so I’d have to just pour it on from above.
![]() 10/26/2019 at 15:21 |
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That's why I suggested the spray stuff. It might be able to get into tighter areas than a brush.
![]() 10/26/2019 at 16:16 |
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My only experience with it was painting the edge of the trunk lid on a 2013 Mustang. It bubbled up again after about a year, I thought I cleaned the site pretty well, but it still could have been down to my prep vs. the product.
![]() 10/26/2019 at 17:27 |
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I have had good luck with those converters - with that phosphoric acid stuff or whatever acid it is. Honestly, it worked much better than I was anticipating. You just have to be careful where the stuff drips to, (ie will mar paint it gets on for example.) We used it on my father’s VW Beetle before a respray and I swear we didn’t get any additional rust through in the areas we treated for the several year he still had it after painting it.
![]() 10/26/2019 at 17:45 |
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Yeah this one hardens to a gel coat. If you leave it on a painted surface you’re not going to get it off without sanding it.
![]() 10/26/2019 at 18:26 |
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I’ll second rust converter. Brush off what you can, hit it with converter, then paint. No idea what that will do for structural integrity but I doubt it’s worse than the current situation.
![]() 10/27/2019 at 06:13 |
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Once you treat the rust, put a plastic tray under the battery. Modern sealed batteries are a lot better than the old acid gushers, but you can’t be too careful.